The Questionnaire_Thesis 5 by Ayo Keys

Sasha Grigorik**

Sasha 2_080.jpg

THE COLLECTION MASCULINE*

*Masculine, divergent, tailored.

6 looks - 10 pieces

Inspired by MASCULINE is a womenswear collection influenced by the normative male stigma. The word masculine pertains to characteristics of a man or men which often bring up notions of power, boldness and resolute.

Essentially, this collection aims to break the boundaries that are often associated with the male gender and applying their traditions to the female form in an unorthodox manner. The initial inspiration was taken from the historical tailoring techniques of Savile Row and the examination of how their garments are constructed.

Through this dissection of the classic menswear construction, interior menswear construction details become exposed on the outside as a source of divide between traditional and radical thought. The traditional menswear tailoring process was a springboard for the rest of the collection, as it started to dictate silhouette, fabric and color story on the female form.

Key Pieces A half trench, half suit jacket done in a classic blue gabardine. One of my other key pieces is the oversized mens button down shirt but done in a sand washed silk to give it a sultry, feminine twist.

The Process

I have to say that my design process for this collection was rather sporadic. If the past 9 months have taught me anything, it’s that I now know who I want to be and how I work at my most creative. I generally start with an incredible amount of textual research (articles, books) and then move onto the visual. I

feel that once I have built my knowledge on the inspiration, I can look at the visuals in a more defined manner. I generally do not feel comfortable sketching with pen and paper but quickly adapted to the WACOM Cintiq tablet to develop my designs.

I feel that photoshop and the digital sphere allows me to envision designs that are not limiting to the classic pen and paper method.

The Customer I imagine my customer as an androgynous, mid 20’s woman that does not subscribe to traditional notions that society dictates and is confident in making a statement through her wardrobe.

THE DESIGNER

**Curious, humble, indecisive

What stores would you like to see your work in? Colette or Dover Street Market.

Which brands would you like to work for? J.W. Anderson, Dior Homme & Ann Demeulemeester.

When you’ve had a bad day what keeps you going? The most recent Game of Thrones Episode.

What items can be found on you at all times? Robert Marc clear circular glasses.

What are you addicted to? Peanut butter - every morning 8:30 A.M

What did you Google last? “new asian restaurant on rue st. honore with incredible drinks”

What is the last thing you took a photo of? My roasted cauliflower pita from Miznon in the Marais.

What’s next? To be honest- I find that’s a difficult question for me to answer. A lot of fields and jobs interest me and I would never want to limit myself to a singular field. I love design and I love creating: as long as I find something that facilities this passion, I will quite literally be the happiest person in the world. I’m extremely anxious to start the next phase of my life and just see where it takes me.

Credits

Designer: Alexandra Grigorik

Photography: Sam Ssefa

Model: Joanna Graca

Makeup: Mayumi Shimizu

Hair: Yuka Sudo

 

You can follow Sasha on Instagram @sashagrigorik

The Questionnaire_Thesis 4 by Ayo Keys

Teslin Doud**

After researching for months Teslin was able to developed a natural deep black dye.

After researching for months Teslin was able to developed a natural deep black dye.

THE COLLECTION THIS IS ME*

*Natural, inspiring, critical.

9 looks - 14 pieces

Accessories 7 necklaces made with woven bits and veg-tanned leather and hemp cording. Also, 3 pairs of redwood platforms with veg-tanned leather handmade by me.

Inspired by My dedication to sustainability and craft. I wanted to propose an alternative design process to the wasteful systems that are currently used in the fashion industry. The collection is entirely handmade, naturally dyed, and zero-waste.

Sponsored by CFDA x Tory Burch Mentorship Award

Key Pieces The black pieces in my collection are key. I spent the entire year searching for a method for dyeing black naturally. They are they key pieces that break the stereotypes of natural dyes and that push sustainable fashion forward. Also important in creating a new image for sustainable fashion are my zero-waste jeans. They took 2 months to develop, but it was important to me to create wearable and recognizable silhouettes through zero-waste construction.

The Process

My design process is very hands on, and ideation and creation are very integrated. As a textile designer, the materiality is always where I start. The woven elements and the creation of zero-waste patterns was where the process started. As the patterns developed, so did the garments. The colors were developed and decided upon throughout the process of weaving. The process of creating was driving this collection from start to finish.

The Customer My customer is a woman who is interested in art and culture. She isn’t driven by the trends and seasons of the fashion world but instead appreciates clothing as heirloom.

THE DESIGNER

**Creator, scientist, witch.

What stores would you like to see your work in? Of course I would love for sustainable fashion to make its way into Barney's, however at this point in time, I see my collection being in a more alternative space like ABC home where it is frame through a different lens, and then seen by customers with more of a collectors mindset.

Which brands would you like to work for? I would love to work for a company that is already practicing in a sustainable way like Study NY where traditional fashion calendars and methods are not of concern. I would also love to work for a larger company like Patagonia or Eileen Fisher where sustainable business practices have been implemented on a larger/more commercial scale. 

When you’ve had a bad day what keeps you going? Putting my headphones in, taking a minute to just breathe, and then directing my focus on making something work [or napping always helps].

What items can be found on you at all times? Phone, small gold ring, usually some dirt or spilled food.

What are you addicted to? Sunshine, napping & creating.

What did you Google last? Ulla Johnson

What is the last thing you took a photo of? Class karaoke sesh, celebrating the completion of thesis

What’s next? Not sure what is next. I want to continue exploring weaving and craft, developing natural dyes and creating zero-waste patterns. I also want to travel to learn from artisans and witness the realities of the backroom of the fashion industry. I’m not sure what exactly I’ll be doing a month from now, but I just want to keep learning and keep creating.

Credits

Designer: Teslin Doud

Photography: Erika Astrid

Model: Melany Bennett

Hair & Makeup: Elayna Bachman

 

You can see more of Teslin's work online at  www.teslindoud.com 

The Questionnaire_Thesis 3 by Ayo Keys

KELSEY HUTTON**

Kelsey went against the grain by embroidering, felting, and crafting her own fabrics with horse hair.

Kelsey went against the grain by embroidering, felting, and crafting her own fabrics with horse hair.

THE COLLECTION CONTRAST OF OPPOSITES*

*Eclectic, Textural, Colourful

7 looks - 12 pieces

Inspired by My own indecision and my love of conflicting things, my designer identity is  -     Contrast of Opposites, Fitted versus Oversized, Asymmetry opposed with Symmetry, Patterned and Solid Colour,Black, white and Accents of Colour,Two Halves that make a Whole.

Sponsored by I had a fabric shop in London called Crescent Trading sponsor me for my fabrics.

Key Pieces My last look which is entirely covered in horse hair that I created myself, another one is a dress made out of neoprene that I felted 3 times to completely change it and make it more textural, another important look is a matching top and trousers that I have covered in embroidery and tassels. These are my most textured looks.

The Process

I usually take inspiration from various self-produced textile manipulations and form explorations deriving from my own drawings and draping.  I love creating flat 2D drawing and creating them in 3d trying to find the balance between volume and 2D.

The Customer A young, fun, carefree women who loves colour and isn't afraid of standing out.

THE DESIGNER

**Colourful, Very British, Perfectionist

What stores would you like to see your work in? Dover Street Market, Selfridges & Harvey Nichols.

Which brands would you like to work for? I loved to work with a Japanese brand Anrealage or the english brands A Child Of the Jago and of course Vivienne Westwood.

When you’ve had a bad day what keeps you going? A good gin and tonic, chocolate/ice cream, friends, family and the thought that it will all be worth it in the end.

What items can be found on you at all times? Lipstick & my iPhone.

What are you addicted to? Colour and creating cool textural textiles, that and probably chocolate!

What did you Google last? A blouse I saw in the window of the &otherstories shop on Rue Saint Honore.

What is the last thing you took a photo of? My embroidery detail from my collection for our  senior daily posts using our #parsonsparis_seniorcollections. My day to post is on a  wednesday.

What’s next? I am looking at applying for a masters back in England, mainly at Central St Martins.

Credits

Designer: Kelsey Hutton

You can follow Kelsey on Instagram @KELZHUTTON

The Questionnaire_Thesis 2 by Ayo Keys

LINDSAY WALSH**

THE COLLECTION PETRIFY*

*Raw, emotional, sharp

7 looks -16 pieces

Inspired by Fear/meltdown/anxiety felt while being stalked and threatened online. Turning inward.

Key Pieces A long leather tunic that starts on the body and lifts off towards the hem as though it’s weightless. A leather top that closes in the front which captured and preserved the wrinkles of the leather while it was being cast, stained pure white like marble; transparent nylon dresses with sharp, angular darts that lend the collection an air of tailoring and modernity.

The Process

I always start with feelings, and then find words for them. I floundered for a few weeks puttering around with words that had to do with stalking until I stumbled upon “petrify”.

It resonated because it implied an absolute stillness and the idea (one element literally molecularly becoming another, but keeping the same outward appearance) gave me something to explore and build on. I looked at petrified stone forests, marble sculpture,  a lot of random rocks, and women who were feeling really vulnerable.

Then I started thinking about how to apply that to the human form; and wondered if it was possible to cast leather on a body. I stumbled upon wet moulding with a particular kind of untanned veg leather, and started experimenting on a hard plastic mannequin underwater with a hammer and nails and a bunch of leather. Then drawing>design>supporting materials for the leather.

The Customer

Someone more driven by style than trend. She understands modern art and performance, and uses her clothes as a dialogue with the outside world. She’s totally unconcerned with standing out or being a little bit of an outcast. Tilda Swinton, maybe.

THE DESIGNER

**Obsessive, calm, observant

Which brands would you like to work for? Dior, McQueen, Rick Owens, Lanvin.

When you’ve had a bad day what keeps you going? Lots of stupid little tasks that make me feel like I have my life more under control. Today I’m working on hooks and eyes. Yesterday was zippers. It’s been a bad week.

What items can be found on you at all times? Earplugs, tape measure, mini umbrella. Swatches of my current collection.

What are you addicted to? Cold coffee. I’d say iced coffee, but I live in Paris, so… “iced” comes with 3 ice cubes that melt in 5 minutes. Maybe lukewarm coffee.

What did you Google last? Cédric Charlier, so I could copy and paste the accent.

What is the last thing you took a photo of? Hook and eye detail of one of my garments to insert in a dresser’s book for the show. (The last non-thesis related photo? My birthday cake.)

What’s next? First runway show on May 20. Then...gainful employment?

Credits

Designer: Lindsay Walsh

Photography: Anna Dabrowska

Model: Cornelia Raviot

Makeup & Makeup: Jay Kwan

Stylist: Chiara Chinigioli

 

You can follow Lindsay on Instagram @_lindsay_walsh

The Questionnaire_Thesis by Ayo Keys

Matthew Wallace**

Its the details that set this Parsons Grad's Thesis Collection III apart from the rest.

Its the details that set this Parsons Grad's Thesis Collection III apart from the rest.

The Collection III*

*Clean, subtle, thoughtful.

7 looks - 25 pieces

Inspired by My OCD and the desire to express how I find comfort in repetition.

Sponsored by No sponsors! I just have my mother to thank, she was very supportive every step of the way.

Key Pieces The last three looks are definitely the most dramatic and powerful and I think the strongest pieces are in those looks. The jacket in the fifth look, the pullover in the sixth, and the coat in the seventh are my three favorites as I think they really convey the concept and are very exciting and unique pieces.

The Process

I had a range of processes and methods throughout the development of this collection. I started by creating OCD systems and applying them to squares of muslin. I would write rules for each piece; cut into three pieces, pleat seven times, sew back into one piece, top stitch three times, repeat.

I then took these samples, scanned them and digitally collaged them onto a figure to  start playing with silhouettes and details...when scanning some of the samples I would blow them up 200%, 300% or scale them down 66%, 33% so there would be a contrast of scale in my sketches.

I also created a couple of really large versions of these samples that I then used to draped directly onto the mannequin. It was a combination of these drapes and the digitally collaged sketches that led to my initial lineup.

From that point on I was creating muslins and moved back and forth between 2D and 3D. I was re-sketching and changing things as I developed the muslins, eventually draping four new looks from scratch that weren’t even in my initial lineup.

The Customer

I try to not define my customer, I believe my collection is adaptable to a wide range of woman as well as any season. I design very layered looks and this gives the customer the ability to break down each look and pull the pieces they can integrate into their lives. When all the pieces are together it can look very dramatic and overwhelming but when broken down they become very accessible.

The Designer

**Hardworking, controlling, goofy?

What stores would you like to see your work in? I’m a big fan of Dover Street Market, they have a great selection and the way they create unique spaces for the brands they carry is really exciting and helps the customer engage with that brand.

Which brands would you like to work for? I’m a big fan of Christopher Kane! Working with him would be amazing and I also think I’d enjoy living in London. I also love Nicolas Ghesquière, more so when he was the Creative Director at Balenciaga, but even still I love the work he has been doing at Louis Vuitton.

When you’ve had a bad day what keeps you going? This probably sounds cheesy, but if I didn’t love what I was doing I wouldn’t be doing it. There are many times when I was really frustrated throughout this process, but at the end of the day I was creating this collection for myself because I truly loved it and that was enough to keep me going.

What items can be found on you at all times? Just the basics; phone, wallet, keys, headphones. I guess also a bunch of old receipts that I leave in my pockets for weeks before throwing out.

What are you addicted to? Chocolate -__-

What did you Google last? “why is my keyboard typing upside down”. It really was! I still don’t know why.

What is the last thing you took a photo of? A really bad selfie of me sick in bed.

What’s next? Finding a job! Hopefully I can find a company that will challenge me creatively and really allow me to be a part of the design process. Fingers crossed!

Credits

Designer: Matthew Wallace

Photography: Michael Ortiz

Model: Hawa Diawara

Makeup: Suzy Tamimi

Hair: Michael Fernandez

 

You can follow Matthew on Instagram @w_allac_e